






Luby Doll Crochet Along
Part Four
Special Stitches
Twisted Single Crochet (tw sc)
Insert hook into st, yo, pull through a loop (2 loops on hook, make them loose), rotate the hook towards yourself (counter clockwise) and all the way around 360 degrees, yo and draw through two loops on hook. Click here for a video which shows how to do it if you are right handed and click here if you are left handed.
Half Double Crochet Decrease over 3sts (hdc3tog)
*Yo, insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop, repeat from * twice more, yo and pull through all loops on hook.
Special Techniques
Working into the Lower Back Loop
This YouTube video explains the technique (also referred to as the third loop in some instances)
Tunic Top
Made from the neck down, initially in rows and then in joined rounds. This top is designed to be loose fitting, for tighter fit around the body, reduce your hook size after round 4.
Row 1: Ch25, work 2hdc into the 2nd ch from hook, work 2hdc into each ch to end, turn (48sts)
Row 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc into each of the first 7sts, work (hdc, ch2, hdc) into the next st, *hdc, ch3 picot into the next st, repeat from * 7 more times, work (hdc, ch2, hdc) into the next st, hdc into each of the next 14sts, work (hdc, ch2, hdc) into the next st, **hdc, ch3 picot into the next st, repeat from ** 7 more times, work (hdc, ch2, hdc) into the next st, hdc into each of the remaining 7sts, turn (52sts)
Row 3: Ch1, sc into each of the first 8sts, sc into the ch2 space, skip 10sts, sc into the next ch2 space, sc into each of the next 16sts, sc into the next ch2 space, skip 10sts, sc into the next ch2 space, sc into each of the remaining 8sts, turn (36sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, sc into each st across, join last st to first with a sl st (36sts)
Test the bodice on your doll now to make sure you are happy with the fit. If it is too big you can frog your work and rework rows 1, 2 and 3 and round 4 with a smaller hook, equally if it is too small you can do the same but with a larger hook.
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc into the first st, work 2hdc into the next st, *hdc into the next st, work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, join as before (54sts)
Rnds 6 – 12^^: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join (54sts)
^^ Feel free to work more or less rounds of 54sts to suit your doll – keep trying it on to check the fit.
Rnd 13: Ch1, work a tw sc (see special stitches) into each st around, join (54sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Shorts
Made from the waist down in joined rounds, at the end of each round join the last st to the first st with a sl st. When dressing your doll in the shorts you will likely need to put one leg in at a time.
Rnd 1: Ch34, join the last ch to the first with a sl st being careful not to twist the chain. Make sure that this chain fits comfortably around your doll’s waist several rounds above the legs, if is too large, try chaining again with a smaller hook, if it is too small, try chaining again with a larger hook. Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc into each ch around, join (as above) (34sts)
Rnds 2 – 6: Ch1, hdc in each st around, join (as before) (34sts)
In this next round, we will make the first pant leg hole…
Rnd 7: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 7sts, hdc3tog (see special stitches), hdc in each of the next 7sts, skip 17sts (mark the 1st and 17th skipped st for the second leg later), join the last hdc worked to the first in the round with a sl st (15sts)
Rnd 8: Ch1, work a tw sc (see special stitches) into each st around, join (15sts)
Fasten off on first leg, leaving a long tail.
Second Pant Leg
Rnd 1: Attach your yarn to the marked skipped 17th st in round 7 above, ch1, hdc into the same st, skip across and hdc into the 1st marked skipped st, continue to hdc into each of the next 6sts, hdc3tog (see special stitches), hdc into each of the remaining 6sts around, join (15sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work a tw sc (see special stitches) in each st around, join (15sts)
Fasten off and hide the loose end.
Use the fastening off tail from the first leg to sew up any hole between the pant legs. Secure the tail and hide the loose end.
Sandal – make 2
Worked initially in joined rounds and then in rows, ending with one last final round. At the end of each round, join the first st to the last with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a stitch from now on), work 8hdc, join (as above) (8sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc into each st around, join as before (16sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1 hdc into the first st, work 2hdc into the next st, *hdc into the next st, work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, joining first st to last with a sl st (24sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, sc into the lower back loop only (see special techniques) around, joining first st to last with a sl st (24sts)
Pause to place a marker into the 17th and 18th sts – these are for the straps later on.
The next few rows form the back of the sandal.
Row 5: Ch1, sc into each of the first 10sts, turn (10sts)
Row 6: Ch1, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 6sts, sc2tog, turn (8sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 4sts, sc2tog, DO NOT TURN. Now we will make the strap. Ch8 not too loosely and not too tightly, skip 6sts across the front of the sandal, sc into each of the next 2sts (these should be the two you placed a marker in earlier), ch8 as before and join with a sl st to the first st in the round (6sts, ch8, 2sts, ch8)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
I really hope you have enjoyed this Luby doll pattern and look forward to seeing your final projects in the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook Group.